So, your rabbit had her first litter. Congratulations! If you are anything like me, you may have felt completely unprepared. While the internet is a great resource, it can be difficult to find reliable information in one place.
There’s a lot to learn with your rabbit’s first litter, but don’t worry; we are here to help. In this post, we will attempt to hit on the important aspects of rabbit pregnancy as well as how to take care of your rabbit momma and her first litter.
First thing first – how can I tell if my rabbit is pregnant?
Female rabbits are commonly referred to as “does.” Her behavior may change slightly when she becomes pregnant. Notably, you could see a slight change in her appetite. She may eat more and may even start to gain a bit of weight.
However, not all rabbits have noticeable weight gain when they become pregnant. One vital sign to look for is called “nesting.” Before delivery, a rabbit may begin to pull fur from her chest in order to create a nest. This is an instinctive behavior and does not mean that your rabbit is cold or even sick. Instead, she is preparing for her babies by making a suitable place for them to spend the first few weeks of their lives.
Other changes you may see are increased urination, nipples (called ‘papillae’) becoming larger or more pronounced, and a change in personality. Some rabbits become more affectionate, while others may become more aggressive.
If all else fails, the best thing you can do is take her to a veterinarian for a check-up. They will be able to palpate her abdomen and give you a better idea of how far along she is in her pregnancy.
How long are rabbits pregnant?
Rabbits have a relatively short gestation period compared to other animals, lasting about 31 days. However, this does not mean that rabbits are born fully developed. In fact, baby rabbits (called ‘kits’) are born bald, blind, and deaf. They are fragile and need their mother’s care to survive.
How many babies can a rabbit have?
Litter size can vary greatly, but most rabbits will have between 2 and 12 kits. Our Holland Lop’s first litter consisted of only three. While she did not have any noticeable weight gain, she did start nesting approximately 24 hours before she first delivered.
How do I take care of a pregnant rabbit?
Realistically, most rabbits are more than capable of taking care of themselves. That being said, there are a few things you can do to make sure your pregnant doe is comfortable and healthy.
First, you need to make sure she has a suitable place to nest. This could be a box, a milk crate, or even just a corner of her cage. Line it with soft bedding, such as hay or straw, and make sure she has easy access to it.
Next, you need to make sure she has plenty of hay to eat. Hay is essential for a rabbit’s diet and is especially important for pregnant and nursing mothers. It provides them with the fiber they need to maintain their digestive health, as well as the nutrients they need to support their growing babies.
Most importantly, you should also make sure she always has access to fresh water. A water bottle is the best way to do this, as it will prevent her from tipping over her bowl and making a mess.
Finally, you may want to consider giving her a vitamin C supplement. Vitamin C is important for all rabbits but pregnant and nursing mothers need even it even more. You can give her a supplement in her water or food, or you can purchase chews that are specifically designed for rabbits.
However, I habitually give our rabbits a small amount of fresh fruit and vegetables each day. This way, they get the benefits of the vitamins and minerals found in fresh produce while also getting the fiber they need from the hay. I don’t do this to prepare for pregnancy but provide fresh materials to ensure their well-being at all times.
Your rabbit had her first litter. Now what?
The first thing you’ll want to do is remove the male from the area if he and your doe have been cohabitating. It’s rare for a male rabbit to hurt its young. However, it’s best to keep the male and female separate until the babies are old enough to be spayed or neutered. A doe can get pregnant again the same day she delivers. Having another litter in such a short amount of time could have a negative impact on her health. By removing the male, you are keeping her and her kits safe.
Once you’ve removed the male, it’s time to start watching for signs that the mother is taking care of her young. One of the most common indicators is that the mother has cleaned the afterbirth off of her babies. Kits come out hairless, so if you notice a lack of afterbirth, that is a good indicator that your rabbit has some maternal instincts. You can also watch for nesting behavior. Your doe may do this before going into labor but may continue to nest for up to two days afterward.
The best nesting boxes have a lip to keep kits from escaping before they have their eyes open. Plastic chicken nesting boxes that can be found in box stores such as Tractor Supply or Atwood’s, work in a pinch.
If you’re not sure whether the mother is taking care of her young, there are a few things you can look for. Rabbits, unlike other animals, will nurse their babies 1 or 2 times a day. Rabbit milk is high in nutrients and fat, so the babies will only need to nurse for a short period of time, with the usual amount of time averaging around ten minutes. Most likely, you will not ever see her nurse as mothers will typically feed their young around dawn or dusk. A mother will only nurse her kits when she feels safe.
In the wild, rabbits purposefully spend time away from their burrows to keep their scent away and avoid luring predators to their homes. You may notice that your mother is rarely in the nest with her kits. Checking the kit’s stomachs is the best way to check that they are being cared for and are developing normally. To tell if they have been nursing, you can gently lift the kit’s skin in the area around their belly. If it is full and plump, then that means she is feeding them.
One other thing to keep an eye on is the mother’s behavior. A doe with healthy kits will be relaxed and calm. If she seems agitated or stressed, it could be a sign that something is wrong. If you notice this, gently pick her up and check her for any injuries or signs of illness.
If you suspect that the mother isn’t taking care of her young, or if you notice any other problems, it’s important to contact your veterinarian right away.
What if the mother rabbit dies?
If the mother rabbit dies, your kits’ chances of survival instantly go down. Baby rabbits are notoriously tricky to keep alive, and, without their mother’s milk, they usually will not survive for long.
If you can, try to find a surrogate mother. A commercial breeder may be your best bet for finding a surrogate. They will typically have the best access to another doe who has recently had a litter. If you cannot find a surrogate, you can hand-rear the kits yourself. This is an extremely difficult and time-consuming task, so it’s essential that you are prepared for it before you start.
The first thing you need to purchase when you are hand-rearing kits is either Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR) or goat’s milk. You will also need a feeding syringe or bottle, as well as a heating pad. The kits need to be kept warm, so the heating pad is essential.
You will need to feed them every 2-3 hours, day and night, for the first week or so. After that, you can start to decrease the number of feedings. However, they will still need to be fed multiple times a day until they are around eight weeks old.
Hand-rearing baby rabbits are not for everyone. Baby rabbits easily aspirate if they are fed too quickly, and many people are not up for the commitment it takes to keep them alive. It’s important that you are prepared for the time and effort it will take before you start. If you have any questions or concerns, please consult with your veterinarian.
The development of kits
Kits typically open their eyes and start developing fur at around two weeks old. At three weeks old, they may begin exploring their surroundings and eat solid foods.
The weaning process begins around four weeks old when the kits are able to eat a more consistent diet of pellets and hay. The mother will gradually start spending less time with them and will eventually stop nursing them altogether.
Around six weeks old, the kits should be completely weaned off of their mother’s milk. At this point, they will need to be fed hay, fresh vegetables, and a small number of pellets every day.
Is a rabbit cannibalizing her litter common?
Unfortunately, it is not unheard of for a rabbit to cannibalize her litter. If your rabbit is displaying signs of anxiety, has a nutritional protein deficiency, or has become excessively territorial, the likelihood of this happening increases. Reportedly, most cases of cannibalism happen in the case of stillborn kits, in which the mother eats her litter as a way to clean up after herself.
Make sure to feed your doe a well-rounded diet before she is preparing to conceive. This helps prevent cannibalism because of nutritional deficiencies.
Rabbits that are most at risk are first-time mothers. The rabbit may be terrified or traumatized by the event and may mistakenly eat her young.
If you notice that the mother rabbit is eating her kits, it’s important to contact your veterinarian right away. They will be able to help you determine why she is doing it and how to protect the remaining kits best.
Why are my kits eating their mother’s droppings?
The kit’s eyes will have opened by fourteen days old, and they will begin consuming their mother’s cecotropes (also known as “night feces”), which will help them gain essential nutrients. Cecotropes are partially digested foods that are later re-ingested. The cecotropes aid in the babies’ nutrition and inoculate their hindgut with the necessary flora to process a solid diet.
Cecotropes are a type of feces that resemble mulberries in size and form. They contain high amounts of proteins, B vitamins, fiber, and hindgut microorganisms. Cecotropes are an essential component of a healthy rabbit diet and are often eaten straight from the anus where they are formed. So, while it seems weird, eating these cecotropes is essential for your kits to be healthy as they grow.
Tips for keeping your kits healthy
Just to recap, there are a few things you can do to help keep your kits and does healthy:
- Make sure they have access to plenty of hay. Hay is essential for their digestive health and should make up the majority of their diet.
- Feed them fresh vegetables every day. Rabbits need a variety of vitamins and minerals to stay healthy, and fresh vegetables are a great way to give them what they need.
- Feed them a small number of pellets every day. Pellets are a concentrated source of nutrients and will help them grow strong and healthy.
- Make sure they have access to clean water at all times. Water is essential for their overall health, so it’s important to check daily so that they don’t run out.
- Provide adequate shelters. Wild rabbits create burrows to provide a safe and cool environment for their young. To simulate a similar setting, make sure your rabbits have a covered place to go if they feel scared or anxious. Fans and ice packs can help keep their cage cool.
I can’t say this enough but, if you have any concerns, please consult with your veterinarian. Researching and reading have their place, but they are no substitute for consulting with an actual professional.
2
